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Mera Peak Climbing offers an exhilarating adventure in the heart of the Himalayas, nestled within the less-trodden paths of the Khumbu region, part of the Mahalangur Himalaya Ranges in the Makalu Barun Conservation Area, Eastern Nepal. This adventure takes you to the highest trekking peak in Nepal, Mera Peak, standing at an impressive 6,467 meters above sea level. Officially recognized as a climbing peak by the Nepal Mountaineering Association, Mera Peak requires a permit to begin the journey from Khare. The summit presents a breathtaking panorama of the world's five tallest mountains, including the legendary Mt. Everest (8,848.86m), Mt. Kanchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), and Cho Oyu (8,188m).
Mera Peak is composed of three distinct summits: Mera North (6,467m), Mera South (6,065m), and Mera Central (6,461m), with Mera Central being the most popular among climbers. The peak's history dates back to 1953 when Col. Jimmy Roberts and his team first ascended it. The North Mera was later summited in 1975 by a French expedition led by Marcel Jolly, G. Baus, and L. Honnis. Since then, Mera Peak has become a coveted destination for adventurers seeking to experience the grandeur of the Himalayas without the extreme technical challenges of other peaks.
Mera Peak offers an unparalleled opportunity to stand atop a snow-covered summit in the Himalayas, where climbers can gaze upon five of the world's highest peaks. This climb is accessible to both novice and experienced adventurers. While prior mountaineering experience is not mandatory, climbers should be physically fit, healthy, and determined to conquer the peak. Mera Peak is particularly popular among those preparing for more challenging climbs like Ama Dablam or Everest, as well as those seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure.
The trek to Mera Peak begins in the lush, green valleys of Lukla and gradually ascends through diverse climatic zones, culminating at the majestic summit. The route winds through the lower Makalu Barun Conservation Area, passing through picturesque villages and unspoiled natural beauty in the Hinku Valley. Climbers will experience varying climates, wildlife, and the warm hospitality of local villagers before reaching the summit. After a successful ascent, the return journey takes you through the Zatrwa La Pass, offering new vistas and a sense of accomplishment.
Choosing the right season is crucial for a successful Mera Peak climb. The best times to attempt the ascent are during the autumn months of September to November and the spring months of March to May.
To embark on the Mera Peak expedition, three essential permits are required:
Local Area Permit: Issued in Lukla by the Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Rural Municipality, this permit costs Rs. 2000.
Makalu Barun National Park Fees: Required to enter the park, with fees set at Rs. 1500 for SAARC nationals and Rs. 3000 for others.
Mera Peak Climbing Permit: Issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), the cost varies by season, with spring being the most expensive at USD 250, followed by autumn at USD 125, and the off-season at USD 70.
These permits are included in the package offered by Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks.
Proper preparation is key to a successful Mera Peak expedition. Essential items include:
Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks ensures your safety and success on the Mera Peak climb. Our experienced Sherpa guides will lead you along established routes, providing pre-climbing training to prepare you for the summit. You'll learn essential techniques and how to use climbing gear like crampons and ice axes. Safety is our top priority, and our team is dedicated to making your summit experience as smooth and enjoyable as possible.
Embark on the adventure of a lifetime with Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks. Our 17-day Mera Peak Climbing Package includes ample rest and acclimatization days, ensuring you are well-prepared to reach the summit and enjoy the stunning mountain vistas. Whether you're a novice climber or a seasoned adventurer, Mera Peak offers a rewarding challenge with the support and expertise of our dedicated team. Contact us today to begin your journey to the top of Nepal’s tallest trekking peak, and let us help you fulfill your adventurous spirit!
Mera Peak is one of the highest trekking peaks in Nepal, standing at 6,476 meters (21,247 feet). It is located in the Solu-Khumbu region, southeast of Everest, within the Makalu Barun National Park.
Mera Peak is considered a challenging climb due to its high altitude. However, it is technically straightforward, making it suitable for trekkers with basic mountaineering skills and experience at high altitudes.
While previous climbing experience is not mandatory, it is highly recommended. Basic knowledge of using crampons, ice axes, and ropes, as well as previous trekking experience at high altitudes, will be beneficial.
The best time to climb Mera Peak is during the pre-monsoon (spring) months of March to May and the post-monsoon (autumn) months of September to November. These periods offer stable weather and clear skies.
The Mera Peak Climbing expedition typically takes around 18-21 days, including acclimatization, trekking to the base camp, and the summit attempt.
The standard route follows the trail through the Hinku Valley, passing through remote villages like Paiya, Panggom, and Kothe, before reaching Mera Base Camp. The climb to the summit involves crossing the Mera Glacier.
Preparation should include cardiovascular training, strength training, and endurance exercises. It’s also advisable to practice hiking at high altitudes and learn basic mountaineering skills.
You will need a Mera Peak climbing permit, which is categorized under the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) Group B permit, as well as a Makalu Barun National Park entry permit.
Accommodation during the trek typically includes teahouses or lodges, providing basic amenities like beds, blankets, and meals. At Mera Base Camp, you will be camping.
Essential equipment includes climbing boots, crampons, ice axes, harnesses, ropes, helmets, and appropriate clothing for high-altitude conditions. Your guide will provide a detailed list.
Temperatures can drop to as low as -20°C (-4°F) or even lower at higher altitudes, especially during the night and early morning on the summit day.
Yes, altitude sickness is a significant concern. Proper acclimatization, hydration, and a slow ascent are crucial to minimizing the risk of altitude-related issues.
Guides are trained to recognize and manage altitude sickness. If symptoms are mild, rest and descent to a lower altitude are recommended. Severe cases may require immediate evacuation.
Meals typically include a variety of local and Western dishes such as dal bhat (rice and lentils), soups, pasta, bread, eggs, and vegetables. At higher altitudes, the menu may be more limited.
It is not advisable to drink tap water. You should use purified or boiled water, which is readily available in teahouses, or carry water purification tablets.
Group sizes can vary, but Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks usually organizes expeditions with a group size of 2 to 12 people, ensuring personalized attention and safety.
Yes, an experienced climbing guide, porters, and other support staff will accompany you to ensure a safe and successful expedition.
Porters will carry the majority of your gear, but you should carry a daypack with essentials like water, snacks, and personal items. The recommended limit for personal gear is around 15-20 kg (33-44 lbs).
Yes, comprehensive travel insurance covering high-altitude trekking and emergency evacuation is mandatory for Mera Peak Climbing.
The cost can vary depending on the services provided, group size, and season. Typically, it ranges from USD 2,500 to USD 4,000 per person.
Yes, climbing gear can be rented in Kathmandu. However, it’s advisable to bring personal gear, especially items like boots, to ensure a proper fit and comfort.
Risks include altitude sickness, extreme weather conditions, falls, and injuries. Proper preparation, experienced guides, and adherence to safety protocols can mitigate these risks.
Communication is primarily through satellite phones or local mobile networks, which may be available in some parts of the trek. Guides also carry radios for emergency communication.
If the weather is unfavorable, the summit attempt may be postponed. The team will wait for a suitable weather window, but if conditions do not improve, the attempt may be canceled for safety reasons.
Yes, the itinerary can be customized based on your preferences, acclimatization needs, and the duration of your trip. Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks offers flexibility to accommodate individual needs.
Basic medical supplies are carried by guides, and some villages have health posts. For serious issues, evacuation to Kathmandu is necessary.
Wi-Fi is available in some teahouses for a fee, and mobile networks work in certain areas. However, connectivity is limited at higher altitudes.
The trek passes through remote Sherpa villages, offering insights into the local culture, traditions, and lifestyle. You’ll also visit monasteries and interact with the local community.
Training should include aerobic exercises like running or cycling, strength training, and hiking with a backpack. It’s also helpful to practice using climbing equipment and simulate high-altitude conditions if possible.
Follow the "Leave No Trace" principles, including packing out all waste, avoiding single-use plastics, staying on marked trails, and respecting local wildlife and culture. Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks promotes eco-friendly practices throughout the expedition.
Mera Peak, standing tall in the Mahalangur section, Barun sub-section of the Himalayas, is a magnificent trekking peak in Nepal's Sagarmatha Zone, Sankhuwasabha district. With its highest point at 6,476 meters (21,247 feet), Mera Peak offers three main summits: Mera North at 6,476 meters, Mera Central at 6,461 meters, and Mera South at 6,065 meters. Additionally, a smaller "trekking summit" is distinguishable from the south.
Mera Peak is often mistakenly cited as 6,654 meters (21,831 feet) due to historical errors, confusing it with the nearby Peak 41. Nevertheless, Mera Peak remains one of the highest trekking peaks, attracting adventurers with its accessible yet challenging terrain and the breathtaking panoramic views it offers. Climbers can enjoy vistas of five towering mountains over 8,000 meters: Mount Everest, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu.
The history of Mera Peak is intertwined with the early explorations by British expeditions in the 1950s, featuring legendary climbers like Edmund Hillary, Tenzing Norgay, Eric Shipton, and George Lowe. The first successful ascent of Mera Central was achieved on May 20, 1953, by Col. Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing. Roberts, a pioneer in Nepal's trekking industry, was honored posthumously with the "Sagarmatha (Everest) National Award" in 2005.
Mera North's first recorded ascent was by French climbers Marcel Jolly, G. Baus, and L. Honills in 1975, although some sources claim it was climbed earlier in 1973 by L. Limarques, Ang Lhakpa, and their team. The first ascent of the challenging southwest pillar was made in 1986 by Mal Duff and Ian Tattersall.
In recent years, Mera Peak has witnessed remarkable achievements. Hari Budha Magar, a double above-knee amputee, summited Mera Peak in September 2017, setting a record. On May 6, 2024, a team from Cyprus led by Alexis Economides set the Guinness World Record for the highest altitude fitness session on Mera Peak's summit.
The standard route to Mera Peak from the north involves high-altitude glacier walking, while the west and south faces present more technical challenges. For seasoned climbers, Mera Peak offers a technically straightforward ascent, with the primary challenge being proper acclimatization. The peak's popularity is due to its accessibility and the stunning views it offers.
Climbing Mera Peak, despite its accessibility, requires proper preparation and equipment. Hiring an experienced guide is crucial for a safe and successful ascent. Guides provide invaluable knowledge of the terrain, weather conditions, and local culture, ensuring a richer and safer climbing experience.
At Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks, we offer expert guides who are well-versed in high-altitude trekking and mountaineering. Our guides will assist you every step of the way, from planning your journey to reaching the summit.
Proper equipment is vital for your Mera Peak expedition. Here’s a list of essential gear:
Physical fitness and acclimatization are critical. We recommend a regimen of fitness and altitude training before attempting the climb. Our guided tours include acclimatization schedules to help you adjust to the high altitudes gradually.
Embark on an unforgettable journey to Mera Peak with Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks. Our expert guides, well-planned itineraries, and commitment to your safety and enjoyment ensure the trekking experience of a lifetime. Contact us today to start planning your adventure to one of Nepal’s most captivating peaks.
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Waltraud and Mundi
25th Aug, 2022
Up to now, I did three trekking with Binod and his agency Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks. One was the Makalu Base Camp and crossing the Sherpani col and Mera Peak. The other was Upper Mustang with the Jomson part of the Annapurna Base Camp and the Manaslu Circuit Trek. Binod is a very good guide, knowing all the routes by heart, and very friendly too. He also is a very nice young man to talk to with good proficiency in the English language.
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