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Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Expedition Overview

Key Information

Duration:

26 days

Grade:

Technical

Best Season:

March to May and September to November

Maximum altitude

6812

Accommodation

Tea house / Camping

Transportation

car / flight

Trip name

Amadablam

Responsibilities:

Guide/company

Ama Dablam, an impressive peak ensconced within Nepal's eastern Himalayan range in Koshi Province, rises majestically to 6,812 meters (22,349 feet), flanked by a lower western peak at 6,170 meters (20,243 feet). Its name, 'Ama Dablam,' translating to 'mother's necklace,' derives from its striking ridges resembling a mother's outstretched arms and a hanging glacier reminiscent of a Sherpa woman's traditional pendant.

For trekkers en route to Everest Base Camp, Ama Dablam dominates the eastern horizon for several days, earning the moniker 'Matterhorn of the Himalayas' owing to its dramatic ridges and steep faces. Its cultural significance is underscored by its depiction on the one-rupee Nepalese banknote.

The historic first ascent of Ama Dablam took place on March 13, 1961, achieved by a team comprising climbers from New Zealand, the United States, and the United Kingdom. Conquering the challenging Southwest Ridge followed acclimatization during a winter stay at 5,800 meters (19,029 feet) as part of the renowned 1960–61 Silver Hut expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary.

Located approximately 162 km (101 miles) north of Biratnagar and 152 km (94 miles) northeast of Kathmandu, Ama Dablam ranks as the third most sought-after Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The Southwest Ridge remains the preferred route, where climbers establish camps along its length. Following a significant avalanche in 2006, the route was revised to enhance safety, now featuring Camp I at over 5,800 meters (19,029 feet) and Camp II above 6,000 meters (19,685 feet).

Climbing Ama Dablam necessitates a permit and the accompaniment of a liaison officer. The optimal climbing seasons are April and May, pre-monsoon, and September and October, post-monsoon.

Embark on an unforgettable expedition to Ama Dablam with Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks, where professionalism, unique experiences, and a warm approach ensure an exceptional adventure in the heart of the Himalayas.

Ama Dablam South-west route Camps:

Headquarters (4600m/15092ft): Nestled amidst stunning terrain, Ama Dablam headquarters at 4600m provides a welcoming respite for climbers. Here, amidst breathtaking views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Taboche, and Kongde, climbers can indulge in recreational activities like volleyball and soccer while acclimatizing for the ascent.

Camp One (5700m/18,800ft) - 5hrs: The journey from Base Camp to Camp One entails a moderate trail with intermittent rock scrambling, offering a taste of the challenges to come. With limited space for tents, climbers must coordinate and share resources, fostering camaraderie amidst the rugged terrain.

Camp Two (5950m/19,521ft) - 3hrs: The ascent to Camp Two is marked by technical challenges, including scrambling across rock faces and negotiating steep ridges. Here, climbers are greeted with panoramic views and a sense of accomplishment amidst the high-altitude wilderness.

Camp Three (6200/20,341ft) - 2hrs: The final push to Camp Three involves navigating mixed terrain of ice and snow, with fixed ropes guiding the way. As climbers ascend toward the summit, they are rewarded with unparalleled vistas of the surrounding peaks, serving as a testament to their resilience and determination.

Summit (6812M/22349ft) - 10 hrs: The summit day on Ama Dablam is a culmination of months of preparation and dedication. With each step towards the summit, climbers are greeted with awe-inspiring views of the Khumbu region, including iconic peaks like Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. Standing atop Ama Dablam, one can't help but feel humbled by the majesty of the Himalayas.

Embark on the journey of a lifetime with Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks and conquer the legendary Ama Dablam. With our expert guidance and unwavering support, your expedition will not only be memorable but truly transformative.

Ama Dablam Expedition Itinerary

Expand All Close All
Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
BLD
Elevation
1350

Upon your arrival in Kathmandu, our team will warmly welcome you and conduct an equipment check to ensure you're fully prepared for the expedition. You'll also have the opportunity to meet your Expedition Leader who will provide a comprehensive induction, briefing you on the journey ahead.

Food
Breakfast
Accomodation
Hotel
Elevation
1350

The adventure begins as we fly to Lukla, a thrilling experience in itself, followed by a trek to Monjo. Immerse yourself in the serene landscapes as we traverse through picturesque trails for 5 to 7 hours.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
2827

Spend two days in Namche Bazaar acclimatizing to the altitude. We'll embark on a gentle acclimatization trek, reaching heights up to 3,375 meters, ensuring your body adjusts comfortably to the altitude.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

Continuing our ascent, we trek to Phortse, located at 3,840 meters. Marvel at the panoramic views of the Himalayas as we journey through rugged terrain for approximately 6 hours.

 

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

Today's trek takes us to Pheriche, situated at 4,371 meters above sea level. Traverse through high-altitude landscapes, soaking in the beauty of the Himalayas during the 5 to 6 hours journey.

 

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3870

Take a well-deserved rest day in Pheriche, allowing your body to acclimatize further in preparation for the challenges ahead.

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
4730

Resume our trek as we make our way to Chukung, nestled at an altitude of 4,730 meters. Enjoy the stunning vistas along the 6 to 7 hours journey.

 

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Tent
Elevation
4600

Prepare for the next phase of our adventure as we trek to Island Peak Base Camp, situated at 5,100 meters. The journey takes approximately 5 to 6 hours.

 

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Tent
Elevation
6812

A momentous day awaits as we embark on our summit bid. We'll ascend to the summit of Ama Dablam, standing proudly at 6,189 meters, before descending back to Base Camp via Chukung, a challenging journey spanning over 10 hours.

 

Food
BLD
Accomodation
Lodge
Elevation
3440

After the exhilarating summit experience, we trek to Pangboche, located at 3,985 meters. Enjoy the scenic vistas during the 5 to 6 hours trek.

 

The next ten days are dedicated to climbing Ama Dablam. Engage in the Puja ritual ceremony, essential training, and preparations for the summit bid. We'll establish Camp 1, Camp 2, and possibly Camp 3 as we inch closer to conquering

Elevation
1350

Continue our descent as we trek back to Lukla, relishing in the memories of our expedition. The trek takes approximately 6 to 7 hours.

Continue our descent as we trek back to Lukla, relishing in the memories of our expedition. The trek takes approximately 6 to 7 hours.

 

Fly from Lukla to Ramechap followed by a scenic drive to Kathmandu, offering a final glimpse of the Himalayan vistas. The drive takes approximately 4 to 6 hours, depending on traffic.

As your Himalayan adventure draws to a close, bid farewell to the majestic mountains and vibrant culture of Nepal as you depart from Kathmandu, carrying cherished memories of an unforgettable expedition with Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks.

Ama Dablam Expedition Cost Includes?

  • Airport picks up and Drops
  • 4 nights hotel in Katmandu with BB plan    
  • Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu both ways
  • Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu-to Lukla to Lukla to Kathmandu
  • Ama Dablam Expedition permit, National Park, and TIMS permit.    
  • Garbage Deposit fees
  • Food 3 meals a day in Trekking and Base camp   
  • Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage and Payment of Government taxes
  • Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, accommodation
  • Base camp Cook and Kitchen Helper
  • Porters per member up to Base camp and Porters return from Base camp
  • Staff Salary and allowance
  • All Staffs Medical and Emergency rescue Insurance
  • 30 Kg per member for personal baggage
  • Tents for the base camp per member 
  • Base camp foam mattresses, dining, Kitchen, Toilet, and Store tents, hot shower, Tables, chairs, and Cooking gear
  • Light for the Base camp
  • Climbing Sherpa per member  
  • The high camp necessary cooking gas, a cooking pot for the member, high altitude Sherpa, high altitude tent, high food, and fixing gear (C1) (C2) (C3)
  • Full board service      

Ama Dablam Expedition Cost Excludes?

  • Lunch and dinner in Katmandu Hotel and more than 4 nights in Kathmandu Hotel
  • Travel and high altitude insurance, accident, medical, and emergency evacuation 
  • Telephone, Internet, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages, personal equipment, and shopping 
  • The Nepali Visa fee is US$ 40 per person for 30 days  
  • Sherpa Summit bonus US$600, please calculate some tips  
  • Emergency rescue evacuation cost, if needed, and all other personal nature expenses  

Ama Dablam Expedition Altitude Profile

Ama Dablam Expedition FAQs

Accommodation during the expedition typically includes tents at base camps and higher-altitude camps. Some expedition companies may also provide basic teahouse accommodations during trekking portions of the journey.

Yes, climbers should respect the local culture and customs of the Sherpa people who inhabit the region surrounding Ama Dablam. This includes observing religious sites and practices with reverence.

Success rates vary depending on factors such as weather conditions, climber experience, and expedition preparation. Generally, success rates range from 50% to 70%.

Yes, expedition companies often provide porters and experienced Sherpa guides to assist climbers with logistics, equipment transportation, and route guidance.

Most expedition companies offer pre-expedition training programs to prepare climbers for the technical challenges of Ama Dablam. Training typically includes rock climbing, ice climbing, and high-altitude acclimatization.

Yes, climbers must obtain a climbing permit from the Nepalese government through a registered expedition company.

Essential equipment includes mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axes, harnesses, helmets, ropes, tents, sleeping bags, and appropriate clothing for extreme cold and high altitude.

The best time to climb Ama Dablam is during the pre-monsoon (spring) season, from April to May, or during the post-monsoon (autumn) season, from late September to November, when weather conditions are more favorable.

The cost of joining an Ama Dablam expedition can vary depending on the guiding company, services provided, and the duration of the expedition. Costs typically include permits, guides, equipment, accommodation, and meals.

Risks include altitude sickness, avalanches, crevasses, and extreme weather conditions. Proper acclimatization, preparation, and experienced guides can help mitigate these risks.

Yes, prior high-altitude climbing experience and proficiency in technical climbing skills are essential for attempting Ama Dablam.

Climbing Ama Dablam is considered technically challenging, requiring a high level of mountaineering skill and experience. It is rated as a difficult expedition, often requiring advanced climbing techniques.

The duration of an Ama Dablam expedition typically ranges from 4 to 6 weeks, depending on various factors including weather conditions and the climber's experience.

Ama Dablam stands at 6,812 meters (22,349 feet) above sea level.

Ama Dablam is a mountain located in the Himalayas of Eastern Nepal. It is renowned for its stunning pyramid shape and challenging climbing routes.

Ama Dablam Expedition Additional Information

Nestled in the heart of the Khumbu region of Nepal, Ama Dablam stands as one of the most iconic and visually stunning peaks in the Himalayas. Its name translates to "Mother's Necklace," symbolizing the mountain's unique ridges and hanging glaciers. Climbing Ama Dablam is a challenging yet rewarding endeavor, attracting seasoned mountaineers from around the globe. In this article, we will delve into the essential aspects of an Ama Dablam expedition, covering climbing equipment, weather conditions, the best time to embark on the journey, permit costs, and the importance of a seasoned guide.

Climbing Equipment:

The success of any mountain expedition depends significantly on the quality and appropriateness of the climbing equipment. Ama Dablam, with its technical rock and ice sections, demands a specialized set of gear. Climbers must ensure they have:

  1. Technical Climbing Gear:

    • Harness
    • Helmet
    • Crampons
    • Ice axes
    • Carabiners and quickdraws
    • Prusik cords
  2. Clothing:

    • Insulating layers
    • Waterproof and windproof jacket and pants
    • High-altitude boots
    • Gloves and mittens
  3. Camping Equipment:

    • Four-season tent
    • Sleeping bag suitable for extreme cold
    • Sleeping pad
  4. Safety Gear:

    • Avalanche transceiver, probe, and shovel
    • Climbing rope
    • First aid kit

Weather Conditions:

Ama Dablam's weather is characterized by extreme cold, high winds, and rapidly changing conditions. The best time for an expedition is during the pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn) seasons. During these periods, the weather is relatively stable, providing optimal climbing conditions. The temperatures can range from -15°C to -25°C (-5°F to -13°F) at higher altitudes, emphasizing the need for adequate cold-weather gear.

Best Time to Expedition Ama Dablam:

  1. Spring (Pre-Monsoon): April to early June is considered the prime climbing season. The weather is stable, with clear skies and manageable temperatures.

  2. Autumn (Post-Monsoon): Late September to November is another favorable window for expeditions. The weather is dry, and the skies are clear, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks.

Permit Cost for Ama Dablam Expedition:

Climbers planning to summit Ama Dablam must obtain permits from the Nepali government. As of my last knowledge update in January 2022, the permit cost was around USD 10,000 per person. However, these fees are subject to change, and it is crucial to check with the relevant authorities for the most up-to-date information.

Leading Guide to Summit Ama Dablam:

Given the technical challenges and risks associated with Ama Dablam, hiring an experienced and certified guide is paramount. Reputable guiding companies in Nepal offer seasoned mountaineers with extensive knowledge of the region and a proven track record of successful ascents. These guides play a crucial role in ensuring the safety and success of the expedition.

Embarking on an Ama Dablam expedition is a dream for many mountaineers, and with the right preparation and guidance, it can become a reality. From carefully selecting climbing equipment to choosing the best time to tackle the peak, every aspect must be considered to enhance the chances of a successful summit. As the adventurer stands atop Ama Dablam, the breathtaking panorama of the Himalayas becomes not just a reward for their efforts but a testament to human determination and the allure of conquering nature's majestic peaks.

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