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Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam Expedition

Overview And Highlights

Key Information


26 days



Best Season:

March to May and September to November

Maximum altitude



Tea house / Camping


car / flight

Trip name




Situated in the heart of the Khumbu region of Nepal, Ama Dablam stands as an emblem of beauty and challenge for mountaineers around the globe. Its distinctive pyramid shape and steep faces have enticed climbers for decades, beckoning them to test their skills and endurance. Ama Dablam isn't just a mountain; it's an expedition that demands respect, strategy, and a spirit of adventure. In this article, we delve into the allure and challenges of the Ama Dablam expedition in Nepal.

Ama Dablam: The Jewel of the Himalayas
Standing tall at 6,812 meters (22,349 feet), Ama Dablam offers a technical ascent that combines ice, rock, and snow climbing. Its name, which translates to "Mother's Necklace," comes from the mountain's unique ridges resembling a mother's arms and the hanging glacier considered a dablam, a piece of traditional jewelry. This awe-inspiring peak lies in the vicinity of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu, forming a part of a breathtaking Himalayan panorama.

The Expedition Experience
Embarking on an Ama Dablam expedition is a profound journey, requiring physical preparation, technical prowess, and a robust team. The adventure typically begins in the village of Lukla, where trekkers hike through picturesque Sherpa villages, gradually acclimatizing to the altitude and immersing in the local culture. The route to Ama Dablam Base Camp passes through stunning landscapes, adorned with rhododendron forests and panoramic vistas of snow-capped peaks.

Technical Challenges and Climbing Routes
Renowned for its technical challenges, Ama Dablam presents various routes to the summit. The Southwest Ridge route is the most popular, demanding climbers to navigate through rock, ice, and vertical sections. Climbers encounter steep faces, challenging rock steps, and exposed ridges, requiring a mix of technical climbing skills. The use of fixed ropes and anchor points is common to tackle the most demanding sections of the ascent.

The Importance of Preparation and Training
Ama Dablam isn’t just a physical challenge; it's a mental and emotional test. Proper training in rock and ice climbing, high-altitude acclimatization, and team coordination is crucial. Potential climbers must have experience in alpine conditions, technical rock climbing, and familiarity with using climbing equipment such as harnesses, crampons, and ice axes.

Safety and Conservation Efforts
Safety is paramount in any expedition, and Ama Dablam is no exception. Climbers need to be mindful of changing weather conditions and the risks involved in high-altitude climbing. Furthermore, respecting the environment and local culture is vital. Various organizations and local communities work to preserve the natural beauty of the region, emphasizing responsible climbing practices and waste management.

Embarking on an Ama Dablam expedition is an extraordinary undertaking that demands determination, skill, and reverence for nature. The journey isn’t just about conquering a peak; it's a profound experience that humbles and empowers those who dare to pursue it. Ama Dablam, with its majestic beauty and technical challenges, remains a testament to the spirit of human endeavor and the allure of the world’s most breathtaking landscapes.

For adventurers seeking the ultimate test amidst the grandeur of the Himalayas, Ama Dablam stands as a beacon, inviting them to take on the challenge and etch their mark on its legendary slopes.


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 Arrival Kathmandu (1,350 m.) Welcome to Kathmandu Airport by Himalayan Adventure Intl Treks member than transfer to hotel with BB plan


 Preparation day in hotel trip briefing and final equipment.


 Today we take an early flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2827m). At Lukla, we meet with our porters and start trekking with a short walk of 3 hours to Phagding (2,600 m).



 Trek to Namche Bazzar (3,440 m), 5 hours overnight at lodge.


 Rest day in Namche to acclimatize overnight at lodge.


 Namche Bazaar to Tengboche 5/6 hrs overnight at lodge.


 Tengboche to Pangboche overnight at lodge.


 Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp overnight tent


 Days to attempt Ama Dablam.



 Back to Namche overnight lodge.


 Trek back to Lukla overnight lodge



 Fly back to Kathmandu evening farewell dinner in typical Nepali Culture


 Free day in Kathmandu


Note: This trek could be personalized as per your demands that see your time frame. The trip day’s cost will be according to your budget and group size so please kindly provides us your details. For a tailor-made program

What Is Included ?

  • Airport picks up and Drops
  • 4 nights hotel in Katmandu with BB plan    
  • Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu both ways
  • Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staff from Kathmandu-to Lukla to Lukla to Kathmandu
  • Ama Dablam Expedition permit, National Park, and TIMS permit.    
  • Garbage Deposit fees
  • Food 3 meals a day in Trekking and Base camp   
  • Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage and Payment of Government taxes
  • Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary, accommodation
  • Base camp Cook and Kitchen Helper
  • Porters per member up to Base camp and Porters return from Base camp
  • Staff Salary and allowance
  • All Staffs Medical and Emergency rescue Insurance
  • 30 Kg per member for personal baggage
  • Tents for the base camp per member 
  • Base camp foam mattresses, dining, Kitchen, Toilet, and Store tents, hot shower, Tables, chairs, and Cooking gear
  • Light for the Base camp
  • Climbing Sherpa per member  
  • The high camp necessary cooking gas, a cooking pot for the member, high altitude Sherpa, high altitude tent, high food, and fixing gear (C1) (C2) (C3)
  • Full board service      

What Is Excluded?

  • Lunch and dinner in Katmandu Hotel and more than 4 nights in Kathmandu Hotel
  • Travel and high altitude insurance, accident, medical, and emergency evacuation 
  • Telephone, Internet, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages, personal equipment, and shopping 
  • The Nepali Visa fee is US$ 40 per person for 30 days  
  • Sherpa Summit bonus US$600, please calculate some tips  
  • Emergency rescue evacuation cost, if needed, and all other personal nature expenses  

Ama Dablam Expedition Altitude Profile

Additional Information

Nestled in the heart of the Khumbu region of Nepal, Ama Dablam stands as one of the most iconic and visually stunning peaks in the Himalayas. Its name translates to "Mother's Necklace," symbolizing the mountain's unique ridges and hanging glaciers. Climbing Ama Dablam is a challenging yet rewarding endeavor, attracting seasoned mountaineers from around the globe. In this article, we will delve into the essential aspects of an Ama Dablam expedition, covering climbing equipment, weather conditions, the best time to embark on the journey, permit costs, and the importance of a seasoned guide.

Climbing Equipment:

The success of any mountain expedition depends significantly on the quality and appropriateness of the climbing equipment. Ama Dablam, with its technical rock and ice sections, demands a specialized set of gear. Climbers must ensure they have:

  1. Technical Climbing Gear:

    • Harness
    • Helmet
    • Crampons
    • Ice axes
    • Carabiners and quickdraws
    • Prusik cords
  2. Clothing:

    • Insulating layers
    • Waterproof and windproof jacket and pants
    • High-altitude boots
    • Gloves and mittens
  3. Camping Equipment:

    • Four-season tent
    • Sleeping bag suitable for extreme cold
    • Sleeping pad
  4. Safety Gear:

    • Avalanche transceiver, probe, and shovel
    • Climbing rope
    • First aid kit

Weather Conditions:

Ama Dablam's weather is characterized by extreme cold, high winds, and rapidly changing conditions. The best time for an expedition is during the pre-monsoon (spring) and post-monsoon (autumn) seasons. During these periods, the weather is relatively stable, providing optimal climbing conditions. The temperatures can range from -15°C to -25°C (-5°F to -13°F) at higher altitudes, emphasizing the need for adequate cold-weather gear.

Best Time to Expedition Ama Dablam:

  1. Spring (Pre-Monsoon): April to early June is considered the prime climbing season. The weather is stable, with clear skies and manageable temperatures.

  2. Autumn (Post-Monsoon): Late September to November is another favorable window for expeditions. The weather is dry, and the skies are clear, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks.

Permit Cost for Ama Dablam Expedition:

Climbers planning to summit Ama Dablam must obtain permits from the Nepali government. As of my last knowledge update in January 2022, the permit cost was around USD 10,000 per person. However, these fees are subject to change, and it is crucial to check with the relevant authorities for the most up-to-date information.

Leading Guide to Summit Ama Dablam:

Given the technical challenges and risks associated with Ama Dablam, hiring an experienced and certified guide is paramount. Reputable guiding companies in Nepal offer seasoned mountaineers with extensive knowledge of the region and a proven track record of successful ascents. These guides play a crucial role in ensuring the safety and success of the expedition.

Embarking on an Ama Dablam expedition is a dream for many mountaineers, and with the right preparation and guidance, it can become a reality. From carefully selecting climbing equipment to choosing the best time to tackle the peak, every aspect must be considered to enhance the chances of a successful summit. As the adventurer stands atop Ama Dablam, the breathtaking panorama of the Himalayas becomes not just a reward for their efforts but a testament to human determination and the allure of conquering nature's majestic peaks.

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